By Trisha Chawla
Layering your outfit is a cool look, but when it comes to layering up on skincare, we all prefer the shorter route. Enter: Squalane, the do-it-all active that’s more than just your basic hydration hero. It protects (skin), it attacks (free radicals) and, more importantly, it brings your glow back.
You may have also come across a different spelling of this skincare ingredient–squalene (with an ‘e’). Confused about which one to search your labels for? We reached out to the Mumbai-based dermatologist, Dr Harshna Bijlani, to tell us the benefits of the buzzy new ingredient and the lowdown behind its two spellings.
Squalene vs squalane–how do you tell the difference?
Squalene (with an ‘e’) is naturally produced by your body. In fact, it makes up 10-12% of your skin’s sebum that is responsible for keeping it hydrated from within. While it used to be derived from shark liver oil, it is now extracted from plants like olives, rice bran, and wheat germ after a ban imposed by the European Union to stop the hunting of endangered shark species. “[In its original form] This plant-based formula is an unstable compound that is prone to oxidation, giving it a shorter shelf life,” explains Bijlani.
Squalane (with an ‘a’) is a lighter, more stable molecule that is produced by the hydrogenation of squalene. Though both squalane and squalene can be used in your skincare products, you’re more likely to see squalane on the ingredient list.
“Thanks to its light texture and non-comedogenic nature, squalane is perfect to boost hydration for oily and acne-prone skin as it won’t clog pores. Since squalene is slightly heavier, it provides dry and mature skin with an extra boost of moisture,” says Bijlani.
Why is it good for your skin?
“Like collagen, your skin’s natural squalene production slows down as you grow older,” says Bijlani. Using squalane, which is a natural emollient, helps replenish these stocks and keep skin moisturised. “Squalene absorbs into the lipidic layers of skin, locks in moisture and prevents further water loss,” adds Bijlani.
In addition to hydration, this multi-tasking ingredient repairs the skin barrier and protects it against environmental damage, like UV rays. It also reduces inflammation, making it a go-to for acne-prone skin, dermatitis and rosacea. The long list doesn’t end here–squalane is also a star anti-ageing ingredient that reduces the appearance of fine lines, pigmentation and wrinkles.
Power couples with squalene
To boost its benefits, Bijlani recommends, “Pair squalene with actives like AHA, BHA, PHA or retinol. Its emollient properties counter the dryness that may be caused by these actives,” says Bijlani.