Collagen In Your Skincare: Working Hard Or Hardly Working?

By Khanak Mehta 

Collagen has come a long way in the past decade. From being an ingredient that only dermatologists spoke of to becoming a beauty buzzword that even featured in the ‘That Girl’ trend on Instagram. While we’re familiar with in the form of serums and creams, it now comes in more versatile forms like powder mixes and gummies, too. But does this ingredient really work, or is it overrated? We take a closer look. 

 
The curious case of collagen 

Collagen is the most abundant protein in our body, responsible for making our skin look firm and plump–basically, Instagram’s ‘Paris’ filter but in real life. As we mature and expose ourselves to the sun, stress, and pollution, our existing collagen starts to break down at the rate of approximately 1% every year after the age of 21. Its production slows as well, leading to wrinkles and loss of fullness in our skin. 

Now, the easy way to combat this would just be to introduce more collagen into your skin with creams and serums, right? No! That isn’t the case anymore.  

Collagen has a molecular weight that is too large to penetrate the dermis, which is the thick inner layer of your skin. So, the hard reality is that its topical application won’t do much to stimulate collagen synthesis or growth–but it can provide some moisturisation to your skin, so don’t throw away your collagen cream just yet. This is simply a classic case of an ingredient getting lots of marketing hype with not a lot of substantial facts behind it. 

Coll(agen) me maybe? 

If not skincare, are oral collagen supplements the answer? Well, yes and no. There is a lot of anecdotal evidence claiming that collagen supplements enhance skin health, but not enough scientific studies to back it up.  

Moreover, most of the items we ingest are broken down by our stomach acids instead of being absorbed into our bloodstream. So, there is no scientific clarity on whether our bodies absorb ingested collagen or simply break it down in our stomachs.  

However, a lot of collagen supplements now have hydrolysed collagen in them, which makes it easier for our body to potentially absorb it. In fact, a 2019 study conducted with hydrolysed collagen concluded that it may help with skin ageing and wound healing. It is unclear if it has any substantial or long-term benefits, though. 
 

The final call on collagen 

If you’re still wanting to add collagen into your beauty routine, we suggest giving supplements a try. But keep in mind that not all supplements are regulated, so it’s best to speak to your doctor before taking one. While you most likely don’t need them if you have a protein-rich diet, they could still possibly be beneficial for you.  

Also, while collagen in skincare may not do much, ingredients like vitamin C, green tea and retinoids are proven to aid collagen production by acting as messengers that signal your cells to produce more collagen. So, if these ingredients don’t already have a spot in your skincare routine, it’s worth giving them a try as well.