Can You Wear Vitamin C with Niacinamide?

By Anupriya Jamuar 

Beauty myths have always existed alongside skincare developments. One such myth that has gained traction over time has been that you should not mix vitamin C with niacinamide. Reportedly, two problems arise if you mix these two ingredients together. First, it neutralises their efficacy, and secondly, vitamin C converts niacinamide into nicotinic acid, which can be irritating for your skin.  

But wait, we are here to tell you why this doesn’t stand true anymore. We asked Dr Renuka Thergaonkar, the Director of R & D Global Consultants who has rich experience in product development all about the formulation of vitamin C with niacinamide. 

Why the myths aren’t true 

The research that showed the incompatibilities of vitamin C and niacinamide dates back to the early ’60s, a time when unstabilised samples of the two ingredients were used. Whereas now, in modern-day cosmetics, both the ingredients are stabilised before being used in any formulation. 

Secondly, the myth about vitamin C converting niacinamide into nicotinic acid, though accurate, is only half the story. For that reaction to occur, these ingredients need to be working at high pressure and temperatures. As you know, this does not apply to your skincare, as they’re usually kept in cool, dry places at room temperature. 

Why is it difficult to balance vitamin C with niacinamide? 

“It is difficult to balance niacinamide and Vitamin C in a formulation as we must look at the percentages, the derivative of vitamin C used and the rate of absorption for your skin,” says Dr Renuka. 

Any interaction with light, heat or pH changes can disbalance the formula. “Hence, we look at all the critical aspects that will trigger any kind of reaction, like heat used during the manufacturing process or the choice of packaging containers,” she says.  

When vitamin C and niacinamide work well together 

“There are several derivatives of vitamin C like tetrahexyldecyl, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. The most used derivatives are ascorbyl 6 phosphate, ascorbyl phosphate, 3 o ethyl ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and ascorbyl glucoside which are more stable than normal ascorbic acid,” explains Dr Renuka. 

“They do not undergo deterioration so easily in presence of niacinamide and hence are more photostable. These forms in combination with niacinamide works to provide better efficacy as well as helps in soothing of skin,” explains Dr Renuka.